Surfboard comes in a variety of sizes and shapes. Knowing the purpose for which a board is designed can be confusing at times. If you are not sure what style of surfboard is right for you, keep reading!The following article explains some general guidelines for classifying surfboards.

EGG (6-8.5 feet)

Eggs look like stubby, rounded, hybrid longboards. Common in smaller surf, these boards about having fun, not so much about performance and tricks. Eggs are a good choice for beginning surfers, because their width makes them pretty stable (read: easier to stand up!) and they work great on small waves.

FISH (under 7 feet)

A fish, as described here, is a short, stumpy board for riding small waves. The board’s name can be confusing, because “fish” also refers to a swallow tail shape that is found on other types of boards. Fish boards usually also have the swallow tail, and are often twin-finned for getting crazy on the small days.

HYBRID / FUNBOARD (7-9 feet)

Funboards, or “mini-mals,” are smaller versions of the classic longboard shape. Due to the funboard’s reduced size, surfers have better mobility in the water, though they will sacrifice in stability and paddling ease. Funboards either have a single fin (like most longboards) or three fins (thruster style).

LONGBOARD (9-12 feet)

Longboards are characterized by their rounded nose and long length, and they typically sport a single fin. They are wide throughout, with a slight taper at the tail.

SHORTBOARD (5.5-7 feet)

Shortboards are characterized by a slender pointy nose and generally smaller dimensions. These boards allow surfers excellent mobility for tricks and sharp cuts, but they are small, so they’re harder to stabilize. Usually, shortboards have 3 or 5 fins (thruster or Bonzer style), and are ridden by more experienced surfers.

Stand Up Paddle (SUP), or in the Hawaiian language Hoe he'e nalu

A Stand Up Paddle board more information......

Here’s a brief look at some common surfboard design terms. Knowing what these are will help you define what kind of board you like.

STRINGER

The stringer is the wooden “backbone” of a surfboard, a durable strip of wood down the length of the foam that provides a support beam to make the board stronger and sturdier. Some boards don’t have a stringer, while some shapers don’t stop at just one. There have been boards produced with as many as seven or nine stringers, though the benefit from doing so is debatable due to the added weight caused by the wood.

LENGTH / WIDTH / THICKNESS

The interplay of dimensions is the determining factor for a surfboard’s performance and speed. These specs affect the board in different ways:

• The length of a board determines how easy it is to paddle and how it maneuvers. Longboards are much easier to paddle but they make wide turns, while shortboards are more difficult to paddle but can turn on a dime.

• The width and thickness of a board determines its buoyancy and floatation. A wider, thicker board is easier to propel across the water and has more stability than a thinner board. Paddling is easier for these reasons, and so is standing up; however, the sacrifice is in maneuverability as wide boards can’t react as quickly or as sharply as the thinner ones.

ROCKER

The curvature of a surfboard is known as its rocker. If you look at a board from the side and you’ll notice the upturned nose and the concave shape of the deck. The more pronounced the rocker, the easier the board is to turn and maneuver in the water. However, a flatter rocker is better for streamlined speed.

FINS

Fins have a big impact on the way a board rides. The more surface area the fins have, the easier it will be to stabilize and control movements. However, big fins will also drag a board down, so surfers should strike a balance depending on the type of riding they intend to do. Additionally, the location of the fin box(es) will also change the performance of a surfboard – fins pushed to the back will make the board feel more steady, but it will be really tough to turn. Fins brought forward will make the board turn more easily, but the board will feel much more wobbly and will require more balance and control. For more in-depth information related to fins, see this article.

RAILS

The rails are the sides of a surfboard and have an enormous impact on the way it rides. Turning ease is a factor of the rails’ angles, which are often tuned to different measurements as they run from tip to tail. A sharper angle means a quicker, tighter turn. A rail with a duller angle will make wider turns, without as much ease. Most surfboards are designed with a sharper angle in the back portion with a more obtuse tuning as the rails edge toward the nose. This allows for sharp turning (turns originate in the rear) with a more forgiving transition.

CONTOUR

There is always some type of concave contour on the base of a surfboard. While the degree of the contour varies, the idea remains the same: water is forced into a channel underneath the board, resulting in a faster ride with improved acceleration.

Despite a history that dates back several centuries, modern surfboards are remarkably technological. They start off as delicate pieces of foam, as breakable as a disposable coffee cup, and end up propelling their rider across the face of a churning wave, withstanding the crushing power of the ocean. The trust that a surfer holds in his surfboard under such intense conditions is an essential part of the sport, so it’s important to have some idea of its construction and design. Here’s a glimpse into the process.

(Most of the following article pertains to surfboards made by hand shapers, though the process is similar even when companies mass-produce their boards using machines.)

Part I: Laying the Foundation

To look at a pile of foam slabs, it’s hard to believe that such flimsy, brittle material can be fashioned into high-performance equipment capable of taking on the enormous force of a breaking wave. But that’s how it all begins – a sheet of foam cut into a brick just a bit larger than the surfboard it will one day become.

Polyurethane foam is the most common material used in building boards, though some shapers prefer to use Styrofoam, extruded polystyrene or expanded polystyrene to make their blanks. Additionally, foam slabs come in a number of densities, thicknesses and weights, with shapers deciding which specifications provide the best foundation for the board they’re designing.

Foam slabs become blanks in just a few steps. First, the shaper adds one or more wooden stringers, giving increased strength to the foundation. These stringers are roughly the same thickness as the slab, and are often rounded at the nose and tail to give the board shape and increase its rocker. To insert the stringer, the shaper must first cut the foam lengthwise down the center with a hotwire (a very thin, red-hot cable with a handle on either side). He then glues the stinger in between the two halves and tightens straps around the block of foam to secure the stringer while the glue hardens.

Once the drying process is complete, templates are fastened into mirroring positions down both sides of the slab. To see them from the side, the templates resemble the profile of a kayak: long, narrow and upturned a bit at the end. These provide a guide for the shaper as he hotwires off the excess foam along the top and bottom.

The final step is to attach the “bird’s eye view” template to the top of the slab, centered over the stringer. This template, like those used on the sides, is made of a flexible wood that rests flush against the now-concave surface of the board, secured into place using clamps. Running the hotwire along the template’s edge, the shaper cuts the foam into the outline of a surfboard, finally turning a simple foam slab into a blank.

As you can see, blanks are not terribly complicated to make, but they are the basis for a lot of the resulting surfboard’s integrity and strength.

(To be complete, I’ll note that this process varies quite a bit from shaper to shaper. Some people prefer to use saws rather than hotwires, or they’ll add extra stringers to the foam. In fact, not all shapers make their own blanks; there are many who prefer to spend their time on the more technical aspects of making surfboards, so they buy pre-fashioned blanks from foam supply companies.)

Part II: Tuning the Shape

The art of shaping requires a keen attention to detail and a dedication to progression. Shapers are tasked with transforming blanks from foundational blocks of rugged foam into precisely articulated surfing machines, factoring in design elements to achieve particular performance characteristics.

Shaping by hand demands a throng of tools, a well-ventilated area to work and a good eye for symmetry. To begin shaping, a planer is used to shave off and even out the foam along the deck and base of the board. Many people will start out using a rough setting on their planer, to remove any imperfections or lumps in the foam, before using a finer cut to allow for more detailed tuning. Before moving on, the shaper uses a sanding block to smooth out and refine the surfaces of the surfboard.

The rails come next. To give themselves a guide as they sand, shapers will use a pencil or pen to mark out their “lines” along the sides of the blank, the degree to which they will shape the rails down. The angle of the rails is the basis for the board’s turning ability, steadiness and performance, so the measurements must be precise (not to mention identical on either side to ensure balance in the finished product). The nose rails are often tuned to 50/50, meaning the line runs dead even between the base and the deck of the board. As the marking line moves toward the center rails, the tuning eases closer to a 70/30 measurement (where the line is drawn 70% from the top, 30% from the bottom). Typically, the last third of the board gets tuned to 100/0, so the deck is shaped down to the bottom. These guidelines are incredibly subjective, and every shaper has his or her own ideas about the most functional way to shape the rails. Once the line is in place, the shaper uses a sanding block to file down the rails, finishing off with a fine-gauge paper for the final touches.

Last but not least, a small hole is made for the leash plug and the grooves for one or more fin box are carved out. These pieces will be added a little later, during the glassing process.

(This section describes the process used by hand shapers, but there are plenty of bigger companies who have machines that can do most of a board’s shaping. Using Computer Assisted Design (CAD) software, these businesses are able to design the shape of the board on the computer, feeding the information into specialized equipment that then cuts the board down to size. There is no replacement for the human touch, however – these boards are still finished by hand.)

Part III: Graphics and Glass

The shape has been completed, and it’s now time to glass the board. Before glassing, painted graphics may be added by spraying or painting directly onto the board. Cut-out graphics are also added at this point if they’re desired.

With the graphics finished, the glasser gets to work. Several layers of cloth fiberglass are laid out across the deck, cut to match the shape of the board, and treated with a hardening agent to give them strength. The weight and the number of layers of the cloth vary depending on the size of the board (and to some degree, the size of the person riding it). Usually, a deck receives two or three layers of cloth – 4oz weight on shortboards, heavier on longboards – while the bottom is layered with one or two sheets. Before any resin is added, the glasser makes cut-outs in the cloth where the fin box(es) and leash plug will be inserted, eventually squeezing them into place after a layer of hardener has been applied.

This is the time to acknowledge the differences between the various foams used in creating surfboards, as different types of foam require the use of different types of hardening agents. When the blank is made from polyurethane foam, the cloth fiberglass is coated with a layer of polyester resin. Conversely, shapers who use Styrofoam blanks glass and coat them with epoxy to give them the durability they need. For a more detailed discussion of epoxy resin technologies, take a look at this article.

The resin adds a lot of weight to the surfboard, so after it dries, the shaper/glasser takes a hand sander and removes a lot of the build-up. While this may seem counterproductive (didn’t they just apply the stuff?), the resin has already done its job, seeping into the upper parts of the foam and activating the strength of the fiberglass cloth. The extra stuff on the surface of the board is unnecessary. With the sanding complete, a spray or brush-on finish can be added to make the board look glossy.

After that’s done, the fins and leash are put on and it’s down to the beach for a test ride!

Introduced only a couple of decades ago, epoxy resin is a relatively new trend in the surfboard industry. Traditionally, surfboards have been treated with polyester resin; however, many shapers are now turning to epoxy for its incredible strength and durability. This article talks about the differences between polyester and epoxy resins, the types of boards made using epoxy, the foam options for epoxy construction, as well as its benefits and problems.

Traditional vs. Epoxy Construction

The typical modern surfboard is made using polyurethane foam and polyester resin. While this combination proved successful as the standard for many years, the industry couldn’t turn its back to the benefits of epoxy resin and has begun to embrace the idea.

To begin with, epoxy resin is a healthier alternative to polyester. When working with polyester resin, glassers must wear masks to ensure that the harmful chemicals won’t damage their respiratory system. For years, manufacturers have struggled to come up with a method of making surfboards that would be less destructive, both to their health and the environment. It seems that epoxy might fit the bill. Epoxy emits 50-75% fewer VOCs (volatile organic compounds) than polyester resin, which means a decrease in harmful chemicals in the shop and the environment in general. In fact, epoxy is a common household item, safe to use without a mask and with only moderate ventilation.

One possible difference between the two types of resin applications is their ability to withstand the test of time. Since the epoxy technology has only been part of the mainstream market for a few years, it’s hard to gauge how it compares to polyester. Some experts, such as those from the Surfrider foundation, say that the added durability from the epoxy translates to a longer-lasting board, while proponents of polyester claim that the epoxy yellows and fails over time, especially when left too long in the sun. While further research and development is necessary to know for sure, epoxy boards seem to last at least as long as their polyester counterparts when cared for properly.

On a final comparative note, epoxy is lighter than polyester. Under most circumstances, resin makes up a large part of a completed board’s overall weight. Not only is epoxy lighter than polyester, but less is needed per coat. This ends up meaning a lighter surfboard – a big plus for most surfers.

Epoxy-Compatible Foams

As discussed above, most surfboards are made with polyurethane foam as their core. Polyurethane (PU) foam has many benefits that have made it a front-running choice for so long: it is very easy to handle and shape, it is inexpensive, and it can be found in several shapes and sizes. Unfortunately, making PU foam requires the use of highly toxic materials, not to mention that it is also highly susceptible to water damage during storage.

While PU is the most common type of foam used in surfboard construction (it was the only type sold by former blank giant Clark Foam for over 40 years), epoxy resin isn’t compatible with it. Instead, shapers use polystyrene foam, an alternative foam that is lighter weight and not as chemically harmful to those who handle it. Polystyrene foam comes in two varieties – expanded and extruded – each compatible with epoxy resin, and each with its own positives and drawbacks.

EXPANDED (beaded foam, Styrofoam)

Expanded, or beaded, foam (EPS) is a relatively inexpensive and incredibly lightweight surfboard core. Manufacturers produce sheets of EPS by feeding tiny polystyrene spheres into a machine, then introducing steam coupled with a trace amount of pentane gas to expand the beads and mold them to one another. The end result is an open cell foam, meaning that is very water absorbent. To combat this issue, shapers who use EPS foam must add extra layers of fiberglass and epoxy resin to prevent any dings from penetrating deep enough to reach the foam.

Pop-out boards are made using EPS foam, because the beads can be formed into specific molds. The soft outer portion of a pop-out is an ideal match for the EPS foam, keeping dings to a minimum and preventing leaks from entering the foam core. However, very few hand shapers use EPS foam, because it is difficult to work with and nearly impossible to fine-tune with shaping tools (the beads retain their spherical shapes so well that any sanding causes whole chunks of foam to fall off, leaving the edges jagged).

EPS foam is cheap, light and can be molded into various shapes and sizes. However, in addition to being highly moisture absorbing, beaded foam has a few other noteworthy drawbacks: EPS foam blanks have poor flex patterns and they are more susceptible to dents caused by compression. Again, the extra layers of fiberglass and resin work to prevent these problems from affecting the finished board.

EXTRUDED (closed cell)

Extruded foam (XTR) is made using expensive machinery and computers. The machines melt polystyrene crystals down, using additives and a blowing agent to essentially deflate and combine all of the ingredients together. The result is a fluid that expands as it cools, forming solid blocks of XTR foam. The foam is closed cell, so it blocks out moisture – a big plus in the watery world of surfing.

The process of making XTR foam is time-consuming and costly. The price of the foam itself, coupled with the fact that most XTR epoxy boards are hand-shaped, does unfortunately lead to a more expensive finished board – but one with several benefits for discerning surfers. Not only is the foam core moisture-wicking and stronger than other types of foam, it is also extremely resistant to dings and compression-caused dents. XTR foam also has a good flex pattern, so it’s responsive on the water.

The problem with closed cell foam is two-fold. First, as mentioned above, it is expensive. You will almost always pay more for an XTR board than one made from EPS. Second, there have been reports of bubbles and delamination in the decks of some closed cell boards, caused by gas build-up between the foam, fiberglass and resin layers. However, some companies (such as Channel Islands) have made huge developments in XTR-constructed boards, finding ways to allow the gases to escape without compromising the integrity of the surfboard.

Types of Epoxy Boards

Like regular surfboards, epoxy boards are manufactured using several methods and materials. Here we take a look at the most common types of epoxy boards:

HAND-SHAPED/COMPUTER-ASSISTED

Hand-shaped epoxy boards are made using roughly the same construction method as regular polyester boards. The difference lies in the type of foam used (see “Epoxy-Compatible Foams” above) and in the glassing process. Rather than using polyester resin mixed with a hardening agent, the glasser applies coats of epoxy to bind the fiberglass to the foam. The entire process is faster when epoxy is used, because the waiting period between coats is shorter.

Some shapers will start with a rough block of foam, cutting and shaping it by hand from start to finish. Others will feed their design into a computer-assisted machine, which cuts the foam to size. However, they still fine-tune the shape by hand. Any hand-shaped or hand-tuned board, especially when it’s customized, will be relatively expensive. The shaper spends a lot of time working with each board, so the end result is usually worth the added cost.

Anacapa and Channel Islands are just a couple of the surfboard manufacturers that produce hand-shaped or hand-tuned boards.

MOLDED/POP-OUT/SANDWICH

Rather than shape the blank by hand, some companies with high volume sales will make a mold of a surfboard design for repeated use. These molds are injected with polystyrene foam, which forms to the desired shape and can then be glassed. Once the fiberglass cloth, epoxy resin and an added layer of high-density foam are added, the entire thing can be placed into a vacuum or press to compress it into its final shape. Because molds and compression are used, these surfboards are termed pop-out or sandwich style. They tend to be the cheapest type of surfboard, used primarily by beginners. The top manufacturers of pop-out surfboards are Bic, NSP (New Surf Project) and South Point.

There are also boards that are shaped by hand, but are first subjected to a compression machine, which sandwiches a layer of PVC into the polystyrene foam. These are more expensive and of a higher quality than the pop-out sandwich boards, because a shaper designs the boards individually rather than using a mold. SurfTech, for example, uses this process for their surfboards.

Cutting Edge Technologies

TL2

SurfTech has taken their Techlite core (fused cell foam, virtually waterproof) technology to a new level with their TL2 surfboard design. The Techlite core is further improved upon with the addition of an Acrylite skin, which is glassed onto the board using epoxy resin. The Acrylite skin and the epoxy coating work with the core material to create an incredibly strong, responsive surfboard. The extra strength means that no stringer is needed, so the board is more flexible and springy in the water as well. Like all epoxy boards, the TL2 is made using chemicals that are much less harmful to the environment, which is always a good thing. They are incredibly lightweight and drive hard, giving experienced surfers the performance characteristics they require to go big.

S CORESalomon recently debuted the S Core blank technology, which combines airplane wing structures in the core with ultra-lightweight materials to create a seriously sturdy board. The carbon composite, extruded polystyrene blanks are stronger and more flexible than traditional PU versions. They are not made using sandwich construction; rather, each board is formed using computer-assisted machines, then hand-tuned to shaper specifications. The result is a quick, responsive board that is easy to pick out in a crowd – they are all bright blue!

Epoxy: Pros and Cons

Here is a summarizing list of the pros and cons of using epoxy resin on surfboards, as opposed to traditional polyester resin:

PROS	CONS
Stronger More expensive (can be)	Lighter Less customizable flex patterns
Safer to breathe Slower in the water (can be)	Environmentally friendly
Clear finish	Less resin required per board

Terms and Measurements

These terms describe elements of fin design that affect the way a surfboard will perform on the water.

TOE The angle of the fin (box) in relation to the center stringer is known as a fin’s toe. Most side fins can be described as toe-in, meaning that the front of the fin is turned in closer to the stringer. Toe-in causes the water to pressure the outside of the fins, which in turn makes the board more responsive to rider input.

CANT The cant of a fin is the angle it makes in relation to the bottom of the surfboard. A fin that sticks straight up, perfectly perpendicular to the board’s base contour, is said to have a no cant. Canted fins point outwards, toward the rails of the board. Increasing the fins’ cant leads to a more responsive board through turns, while decreasing the cant (bringing it closer to 90°) makes the board faster, especially when traveling in a straight line.

FOIL When you look at a surf fin, you’ll notice that it is shaped in an aerodynamic fashion from its front edge to the backside. Most often, the thickest portion of the fin is the in the middle, while the thinnest part is the outer edges. This shape is known as the fin’s foil, and it has a big impact on the way the water flows under the board. Some fins are flat on one side and foiled on the other (usually side fins), while others are foiled on either side (single/center fins). The idea is to create lift under the surfboard and help propel it most effectively in different wave conditions. The more pronounced the foil, the more lift it will provide. Unfortunately, this also causes more drag on the board, which slows it down.

RAKE The rake measures how far back the fin curves in relation to its base. To find a fin’s rake, imagine a flat line continuing out from the base of the fin; next imagine a line that extends from the back of the fin base to the very tip of the fin. The angle that these two lines form where they intersect at the back of the fin base is the rake. The smaller the angle, the farther back the fin tip reaches (a larger offset from the base). Fins with a small rake/large offset will propel the board faster and remain fairly stable, but there is a sacrifice in turnability. Fins with a large rake/small offset give the surfboard a tighter turning radius, but don’t offer as much stability. As usual, you’ll need to strike an effective balance determined by the type of waves you ride and the style of board you have.

FLEX The flex or stiffness of a fin plays a big part in the way a surfboard will ultimately handle on the water. If you are a beginner, stiff fins are more forgiving and will give you the stability you need, so you might start there. Their lack of flex makes it hard to make sharp turns, and the turns you do make will be wide and sweeping. However, a stiff fin has the tendency to revert quickly to its natural position, so the turns will be faster than with a flexy fin.Flexible fins add a level of feel to the board that is hard to match with their stiffer counterparts. They are slower to reach their maximum flex, meaning the board continues to respond to the rider’s input throughout a turn. This can cause some problems for new surfers, as it makes the board more difficult to control.

BASE LENGTH This measures what is usually the widest point of the fin’s outline – the base. The base length impacts the way that a board will turn and drive (accelerate through turns). A longer base provides more surface area to push against the water, so turns are stronger and drive is increased. However, the larger base doesn’t permit the board to turn sharply, so if that’s what you’re after, go for a fin with a shorter base length. HEIGHT / DEPTH The depth of a fin is basically how far it sticks into the water, measured from the bottom of the surfboard to the tallest point on the fin. Depth affects the way a board will grip the water through turns, and it determines how well the board remains stable. The taller the fin, the more hold it will have in the water, providing the rider more control. While shorter fins don’t grip the water as well, they do allow the board to slide-out a little, which some surfers enjoy.

Setups / Placement

Ever wonder why some surfboards have five fins, while others get away with just one? Simply put, there are countless setup possibilities, but only two major factors that greatly impact fin schemes: combined surface area and placement on the board.

The surface area of the fins – remember, we’re talking about all of the fins added up – affects the way that the board feels and how easy it is to control. Greater fin area provides more control and stability, but also drags the board down. Less fin area gives the board more speed, but makes it more difficult to control.

Fin placement makes a difference in the way the board will respond and turn. It’s easier to make tight, sharp turns with the fins placed closer to the center of the board (lengthwise), because the axis of the movement is more balanced. However, while it may be easier to turn, it is harder to control forward-set fins. If you need more balance and drive, you should try a board with fins placed closer to the tail. You’ll feel more stable on the board, but turns will be wider and the board will feel stiffer.

Here are some explanations and suggestions for a few different types of fin setups:

ONE FIN (a.k.a. Single Fin) Single fins are typical on longboards, as well as on beginning surfboards. The idea behind the single fin is to provide stability and control. Unfortunately, the increased control also means a sacrifice in performance, as the movements that a single fin allows are restricted to sweeping turns and straight-lined charges.

TWO FINS (a.k.a. Twin-Fin) Twin-fin boards are harder to control in large waves but offer good maneuverability in smaller conditions. They are usually found on shortboards and fish boards, because the two-fin setup encourages speed.

THREE FINS (a.k.a. Thruster) The thruster setup is the most common, and is found on all kinds of boards. It performs well under most ocean conditions, lending a stable feel to a maneuverable board. The outside fins are flat on the inside to increase drive, while the center fin is foiled normally. Additionally, the outer fins are toed-in to speed up the board and allow it to turn more easily. A thruster set-up is the go-to choice for most shapers.

Glasses-In vs. Removable

Surfboard shapers decide on the maximum number, placement and brand/type of fins for their boards before you ever see it in the store. However, the choice is still yours when it comes to your fins. Think of them as an extension of the board itself – if you don’t like the way the shaper has the fins set up, the board probably isn’t for you. That having been said, the first fin-related thing you’ll want to look at when checking out a potential board is the system itself. Are the fins permanently glassed-in, or are there fin boxes that allow you to swap out the fins (if they break, for instance)? Here are some pros and cons of these two types of fin systems:

GLASSED-IN This type of system is most common in retro, twin-fin boards, but some new boards do still come with glassed-in fins. Aesthetically, having the fins laminated right into the board appears pretty classy, but are there other benefits besides looks alone? If done correctly, glassed-in fins are structurally more sound than removable fins, because the entire base of the fin becomes a part of the board. The laminated fin base also affects the way that the board cuts through the water, so more experienced surfers will notice better performance as well.Now it’s time to get real about the changing face of surfing. Glassed-in fins have become virtually extinct in the shadow of removable fin systems. They are a pain to replace if they break (not to mention expensive, as you’ll need to pay someone to do it for you), they cannot be adjusted in any way, and they make traveling with your surfboard incredibly frustrating. Most shapers have turned their backs on glassed-in fins, instead opting to outfit thei boards with newer fin technology. It’s made a big difference. Read on…

REMOVABLE Ever since the 1960s, shapers have toyed with the idea of removable fin systems. The problems posed by traditional glassed-in fins – they’re hard to fix, ship and stock – finally led to revolutionary advances in fin technology on a mainstream scale. The 1990s saw a widespread shift from laminated fins to removable setups, and the surfing industry hasn’t looked back since.Here’s how it works: instead of permanently attaching the fin itself to the board using fiberglass and resin, a fin box is glassed-in instead. Each fin box has a groove that only matches one particular brand of fin, but surfers can change the style, shape and size at their discretion. With very little effort and a fin “key” (a small screwdriver-like device for securing a fin in its box), it’s possible to completely alter the type and/or number of fins on a board to suit varying surf conditions. It literally takes less than a minute.

While it’s great that adjustments, travel, storage and repair have become easier with the introduction of removable fins, there are still drawbacks to the new equipment. The largest issue is, perhaps, coping with the sheer number of possibilities that this system offers. For newbie surfers especially, having to face the endless options associated with a removable fin setup can be daunting and confusing. Luckily, almost every surfboard comes with a set of fins already chosen for you. The shaper is charged with selecting fins that will best achieve the purpose of each board, taking the type of waves and style of riding into consideration.

Removable fin systems are easy, customizable, portable and inexpensive – but they aren’t for everyone. Despite their benefits, some shapers and pro surfers refuse to go down that road, claiming that the simplicity and strength of glassed-in fins makes the surfing better. It’s a choice you’ll need to make for yourself, but at least now you know the whole story.

Fin Systems

Here is a glimpse at a few of the major movers and shakers in the fin industry, and the technologies they’ve introduced that make them unique.

FIN CONTROL SYSTEMS (FCS) Fin Control Systems (better known as FCS) is a leading producer of quality surfboard fins worldwide; in fact, four of the last five surfing world champions were riding FCS fins at the time of their win. They are well made and known for their durability and performance. The key to FCS’s success may be its revolutionary fin-plug design, whereby the fin box is anchored deep into the surfboard, grasping the laminates on both the deck and underside of the board. Most fin plugs are rooted into the foam core alone, then glassed into place using resin. FCS fin plugs are more a part of the surfboard construction, making them far more resilient and less likely to break.The interface between FCS fins and their fin plugs is also unique. Each fin is attached to the board by placing two prongs that stick out of the bottom of the fin into two separate, circular fin plugs. The fins, once screwed into place, are less likely to move laterally (which is a typical complaint regarding fin boxes). The result is a stronger hold back to front and top to bottom. Because their system is completely different from all other fin companies, FCS fins can only be used with FCS fin plugs.

FUTURE SYSTEMS Future fins are another high-quality option for surfers. Unlike FCS’s two-pronged fin plug system, the bases of Future fins are tapered to fit into elongated fin boxes, which are glassed into the board’s bottom. The entire base of the fin is secured in the Future system with an angled screw, meaning that there is a strong hold from back to front. There is still a little wiggle room from side to side, so they need to be secured with a fin key every time you surf for maximum hold. Like FCS fins, Future fins are designed to only work with Future fin boxes. (Future does, however, make replacement fins that are compatible with other companies’ systems, but they are marked as such.)

RAINBOW FIN CO. The Rainbow fin system is similar to that of Future Systems’, just with slightly smaller fin boxes. The fins themselves are the same size, however only a small portion of the base of the fin actually fits into the box, an interface that is unique to Rainbow. Like Future Systems, Rainbow Fin Co. know that not all boards come with their fin boxes; therefore, they allow customers to decide what type of fin base they need. Surfers can get Rainbow fins that are shaped to fit into systems other than Rainbow’s own, such as FCS, Future, LokBox and others.

LONGBOARD FINS / FIN BOXES Longboard fins are inherently different from normal shortboard systems. Unlike the typical fin that fits tightly into a fin box or fin plug, the base of a longboard fin fills in only part of its fin box. The idea is to lend adjustability to the fin setup; an extra long fin box means that the fin can sit closer to the back of the board (for more control), or closer to the center of the board (for looser turns and added feel). The fin slips into the box and is screwed into the channel that runs along the bottom (like Burton’s binding system on snowboards). The ability to customize the fin to match the conditions of the surf is extra important for longboarders – especially those who don’t have a huge quiver of boards to choose from.

PATAGONIA FIN BOXES At the helm of Patagonia surfboard design team is Fletcher Chouinard, their in-house master shaper. The proprietary fin system that has emerged under Chouinard is unlike any other. Whereas most fins are screwed into place at the fin box itself (on the underside of the surfboard), Patagonia’s fins are tightened from the board’s deck. Additionally, the outline of the fin box, which extends through the entire thickness of the board, is made up of small curves, which serve to hold the fin in place extra snuggly.

TURBO TUNNEL The Turbo Tunnel fin is like nothing else in the water. The innovative design features a tube running through the center of the fin lengthwise, which gives the fin the ability to grip the wave extra tightly. It is designed to give the rider longer nose rides, smoother re-entries, quicker turns, increased stability, greater overall control and more creativity in his maneuvers. The Turbo Tunnel fin gives a board more speed and maneuverability than a standard fin, and gives the surfer control over not only the forward direction and horizontal plane, but the vertical plane as well. It is designed for use as a single center fin or as the center fin in a Thruster setup.

 

Surfing has come a long way in the last half a decade. With the advent of the modern, foam-core surfboard, the sport has evolved faster than ever before. Such evolution includes the introduction of certain accessories aimed not only at improving the way people surf, but also the way the live their lives as a surfer. The leash, surf wax and board bags are three great examples of how surfing has progressed – now you can’t get by without them!

Leashes

Credit for the invention of the surf leash goes to Pat O’Neill, son of legendary wetsuit innovator, Jack O’Neill. Until the early 1970s, surfers were detached from their boards completely. This meant that any time they wiped out, riders were forced to swim after their boards before they crashed onto the rocks, got thrashed by the waves, or whizzed into nearby surfers. O’Neill was hoping to change this pattern when he devised the first leash – a surgical cord wrapped around his wrist and attached to his board with a suction cup. At the time, “kook cords” were thought of as lazy and unnecessary, but eventually they caught on.

Now, surfers everywhere wear leashes. The early use of surgical cords was eventually replaced by more modern materials and technology. Urethane cords of varying thicknesses are now strapped around the ankle with Velcro attachments. Urethane, while elastic, does not spring back as quickly as the earlier leashes did, lessening the danger to the wearer. The leash attaches to the board by slipping into a plug on the tail end of the deck, which is laminated into place during the glassing process.

While some critics maintain that the widespread use of leashes has made surfers lazier overall, most people recognize that they allow riders to up the ante and take their tricks to the next level. Without the fear of losing an expensive board, surfers can now go big over and over again until they get it right. As a result, surfing as a sport has progressed and leashes are here to stay.

Wax

Before surf wax came about, surfers were slipping and sliding all over their board. This made paddling, popping up and riding much more difficult than it is now. Surf wax arrived on the market in the 1960s, giving surfers the traction they needed to do their thing. The major surf wax distributors are still led by the pioneers at Wax Research, whose purple Waxmate set off the widespread use of wax we see today (now they market their wax under the name Sticky Bumps). Other big companies include Mr. Zog’s Sex Wax, One Ball Jay and Mrs. Palmer’s.

The technology behind surf wax has come leaps and bounds. Waxes for every kind of water temperature are now available, as are corresponding tools like the wax comb to rough up the layers of wax already on your board. The trick is knowing when you need to scrape off the old stuff and apply a brand new coat. Basically, when your board starts to feel noticeably heavier than usual, it’s a good indication that you need a clean slate.

Applying surf wax is incredibly easy: start off by removing the cake of wax from the plastic wrapper, rub it in circular or crosshatch patterns across the part of the board where you stand, then get in the water and ride. Simple as that.

Board Bags

One of the greatest parts about being a surfer is packing your bags and embarking on a stellar surf trip. Waves all over the world provide surfers with idyllic destination vacations, and at some point you’ll find yourself unable to stay away.

Traveling with a board can be tricky business. The surface of the average surfboard is waxy and dirty, not to mention the load is awkward to carry and position. Board bags are designed with your ease of travel in mind. Some come with wheels, while others sport straps for carrying over your shoulder.

Industry giants such as DaKine, Rip Curl and FCS all market their own take on the board bag, with several key components in common. They are usually padded in one way or another, they tend to have zipper closures that wrap around the outer edges of the bag, and they are designed for a specific length of board

Other than those major design elements, board bags are pretty diverse. Some bags feature a quiver-holder – padded slots capable of storing as many as five or more fin-less surfboards. Others have foam embedded into the walls of the bag to reinforce its strength and shape. Because board bags are often exposed to the sun, UV protection is built into the outer material of some. Nose guards, wheels, fin slots (for permanent, glassed-on fins) and stash pockets round out some other common features found in board bags.

Of course, the more tech the bag, the higher the price. However, depending on the type and frequency of your travels it may be worth it to protect your board (and sanity!) while on the road.